Ten days (make that 11) on Oahu



First meal at our

'Aqua Pearl' suite



Back in August, when we booked our flight, January's 31 days somehow confused our calculations to spent 10 days on each of three islands...and we get to have 11 on Oahu. At this point, however, we would do anything to postpone our stay yet another day (or week! or month!). We have had far more cloud and rainfall since checking into the Aqua Pearl on Nahua Street, just north of the International Marketplace and a short two blocks from Waikiki Beach, but the light cloud and gentle rains at times have been a welcome relief to the heat the sun can provide, even in winter!



We lucked out on finding a perfect location within Waikiki. Everything we might need is within a few blocks of this small hotel, locked in by taller buildings on all but the Western side where we overlook a half dozen, 3-story apartments that will one day (no doubt) be replaced with another towering monolith. A half block south is Kuhio Avenue which makes us feel as though we’re still at Chris’s apartment in Vancouver’s West End where we spent a most enjoyable month over Christmas house-sitting. All sorts of evening activity below us makes for a vibrant neighbourhood!

Joyce, Elaine, Dad Sperle and Bill at 'Happy Hour'

When we first arrived at the hotel a week ago, Friday, our requests for a unit higher up the elevator and a last-day, late checkout of 6:00 p.m. were denied. Two hours later we were told they'd 'had an emergency' and we were given this 1-bedroom suite on the top (10th) floor, along with a second bedroom and bath right next door...all at no extra charge! Oh, and the suite would be available until 6:00 as well. Considering our flight will leave at 11:00 Tuesday night, that's almost like giving us an extra day!



Dancers promote Polynesian
Cultural Center



  Even bette, we can almost see Dad and Joyce's 25th floor apartment a short two blocks away. And, when we finally got in touch with Elaine Sperle (George's cousin from Unity, Saskatchewan, who had arrived on the 27th of January with her travelling companion, Bill) we found that she was just around the corner at the Miramar! You might imagine that our 'roomy' suite became the site of several 'happy hour' and 'supper' gatherings over the course of our stay! As we had hoped, we've already spent several happy days with Dad and Joyce. The girls spent one day 'shopping for bargains' while Dad and I poked around this neighbourhood, solving world problems over a few beers. We also spent a day with them at the Polynesian Cultural Centre. We elected to tour the site on our own (rather than trying to keep up to a guide and 30 others) and found the arrangement suited us just fine. We were blessed with a day of only a few raindrops (Jthis time of year on that side of the island) and were able to get around to the exhibits that all our advisors suggested were 'not to be missed'. On another evening, we met on the beach behind the Hilton enjoying the sounds of the poolside entertainment behind us while 'people watching' the many who gathered for the evening fireworks display. By the time the fireworks were over, of course, we were all ready for a good meal!



Evening 'sailby'
off Waikiki



Being on Waikiki without a rental vehicle (our advisors were, again, most correct) we've allowed each other a little more space with a lot less planning. We spent one day touring the 'Honolulu Zoo' with Neal and Marilyn, enjoying this most amazing weather. It does get a little warm out in the sun but, with slightly overcast skies and light trade winds, the atmosphere (especially in the evening) has been like a soft caress.



Our day at Pearl Harbour with the Wellses was memorable in other ways! There are reasons why shuttles are made available from Waikiki hotels to points of interest around the island we learned. We had decided that 'the Bus', Oahu's amazing transportation system should do just as well (and be much cheaper). After waiting some 20 minutes for the 'right' bus, we spent the next hour and forty minutes seeing little, as the bus, now jammed to the gunwales, crossed downtown Honolulu. As we got off the bus, I was asked to take a picture of this young fellow sitting at the bus stop. Only after he suggested I take another photo with him between the two girls in their hats, did I realize a 'scam' was in play. We denied him his pleasure and, after moving off, Dar turned back to see him sharing a cigarette with a ragged-looking accomplice who had emerged from the bushes behind the open bus stop.

'Catching a wave'





The best part of our journey was that the exhibit was free. The Arizona Memorial, covering the hull of the ship that had gone down with some 1155 on men on board during the bombing of Pearl Harbour, was undergoing renovations and was not open to the public. The saga of Pearl Harbour was to be replayed in a nearby theatre at 1:20, just time for lunch at the recommended 'food court', since the snack bar didn't provide full meals. Well, neither did the 'food court'. Dozens of tables in place, but all that was served at the makeshift kitchen were hot dogs and nacho chips! Neal and I thought we'd died and gone to heaven, but the girls had a rather skimpy lunch!



At 'Turtle Bay'
on the North Shore

We thoroughly enjoyed the 20-minute movie, made up of original footage filmed on both sides at the time of the attack. When the lights came up, we were herded (some l60 of us in all) on to an open craft that would circumnavigate the monument while a state ranger narrated its story. Five minutes out, the actions of the four-man crew convinced us something was wrong. We limped back to port, were told the ship would be out of commission for the day, and that another would be along shortly to continue the journey. By that time, it was after 2 and, knowing we had another long ride back to Waikiki, we opted out. Elaine and Bill were using our suite as a 'holding stage' until their shuttle arrived at 8 that evening to take them to the airport and we had invited everyone over to our pad for another 'happy hour' and supper. This time we chose a different numbered bus and did, in fact, enjoy the journey though nearly two hours in length! So much for that day's venture!



Not a snorkelling site
but a great aquarium shot,
Marilyn!



On another day, we ventured out with the Wellses for a shorter bus trip to spend the better part of the day at the Ala Moana Center, billed as the world’s largest shopping centre. I’m not sure how they rate such things, but without a casino, hotel, playland, swimming pool or ice rink, it didn’t seem to stack up to our West Edmonton Mall. It was supported by only two major department stores (Sears at one end and Macy’s at the other) but I will have to admit it had the largest food court I’ve ever seen (though most of the outlets served some form of Oriental food).





This past Saturday, we spent another day with Neal and Marilyn, having booked a 'round the island' tour in a smaller, air-conditioned bus. We lucked out with this one, as our bus driver (a native of New York City) was an encyclopaedia of information. Both Dar and I were reminded of our friend, Garth Holmes, who had a similar sense of humour and the same photographic memory of detail. Our only problem was trying to record all the information Joe shared.





Dar doing the
'Diamond Head Grind'



We left the hotel around the corner at 8:30 that morning, making some 7 stops around the east and northern sides of the island before cutting back through the centre of it, stopping at the Dole Plantation. Although a light rain greeted us on much of the northern portion of the journey, we were all convinced it was money well spent. We now feel we’ve ‘done’ most everything we might want.



Waikiki from 'Diamond Head'

That would include, of course, the hours Dar and I have spent by ourselves hiking to the top of Diamond Head, poking through the numerous ‘high end’ hotels and art galleries, bargaining for items with owners of the market stalls, or just lounging on the beach soaking up the rays. It’s no wonder people return again and again to this land of contrasting beauty. We will return, too!

 













Ten Days on Hawai'i




 





Our  condo at 'Outrigger Fairway Villa'

  Whoever did the planning should have guessed it was going to take a full day just to do the 'island hopping' on our journey...well, perhaps they did and that's why we put 9 days between 'hops'.  At least we've learned to book 'online', ensuring that we reach our destination in the light of day!  We arrived in Kona in time to pick up our rental (our upgrade is a red Ford Explorer), purchase basics for a supper, drive the 25 miles north, check in to our condo and get our bearings...all before the sun went down!  A much nicer introduction than that to Kauai!





North Kohala



  We spent our first full day (the 26th) making a pass back down the coast to explore the area south of Kona.  The 'community' in which we live is an oasis right on the ocean, surrounded by miles of volcanic debris which, without the necessary rainfall, supports little vegetation.  The area around Kona receives far more moisture and has signs of much earlier habitation by the locals and oceanside developers.  We stopped at the harbour to arrange for an early morning whale watching adventure for the girls, picked up snorkelling equipment at "Snorkel Bob's" for the week, and carried on down the major highway as far as Kainaliu, a small community striving to stay alive, like so many of those further south that depended on the coffee industry.  We had lunch at a 1930s Aloha Theatre in the community whose cafe helped to maintain the cost of upkeep.  The food was well worth the lengthy wait!





King Kamehameha

    Next morning, we headed north to spend the day exploring more of the Kohala Coast.  Its landscape continued to be dry and mostly barren, with palm trees and other hearty species here and there along the coast.  In the heat of day, we explored Lapakahi State Historical Park, roaming it's mile long volcanic trails through remnants of a village some 600 years old.



   As we rounded the most northern point of land, the vegetation increased, and we were soon amidst what had once been profitable sugar plantations.  Neal (ever the one to strike up conversations with the locals) had met a young man who was working two jobs in our area to continue with the renovations to a home in Hawi he had inherited from his father.  The father had worked on one of the plantations and, when the market fell, the owner gave monies to each, allowing them to purchase the homes they had inhabited.  There were several more interesting towns along the way with evidence of a robust sugarcane industry dating from the early 1900s.





Poiolu Valley Lookout



 

   At the end of what became a winding, narrow road was the Poiolu Valley Lookout, a glimpse into a band of steep, narrow fertile valleys that were home to early royalty.  It was easy to imagine this protected paradise as it might have been used centuries ago.  On the way back, we stopped at an art gallery on the side of the road managed by a woman whose family had moved from Prince George to establish a sawmill near Hilo....small world!





   Returning home, we passed through miles of the Parker Ranch, marvelling at the greeness of the hundreds of acres of pasture (some 175,000 in all!).  In 1809, at the age of 19, John Palmer Parker had been hired by King Kamehameha to take charge of the free-roaming herd of cattle that had grown from the gift of 7 longhorn given the King in 1793.  Later, Parker married one of  the King's granddaughters, ensuring the security of his investment!  Despite being cattle country, we had a difficult time finding some beef when we dropped down to Waimea in search of lunch.  Much of the island has been influenced by the number of Japanese who settled here and fish was the major commodity on most menus!





Whale watching wahines







   We were up at 5 am Friday morning (the 28th) to get the girls down south in time for their date with Dan McSweeney, the marine biologist, at 7:00 o'clock.  For the next three hours Neal and I scouted out the snorkelling site suggested, located WalMart (I know, I know), and settled into a hearty breakfast at Bongo Ben's overlooking the waterfront.  We returned to pick up the girls who were enthralled with their adventure.  We returned to the Outrigger where Dar declined an invitation to join some local artists in favour of lunch at their beach lounge located above tidal pools where turtles sunned and bright butterfly fish darted.  (The girls had had no more than a snack bar since waking up!)





Snorkelling prep



    Next we pushed through the hotel's fence to the State Park next door for our first shot at snorkelling.  Though the reef there was in danger, this turned out to be the very best snorkelling site of the two we tried.  The better, northern sites are at their best in the summer, apparently.  After greasing up my moustache with vaseline to provide a better seal, I was delighted with the extra few dollars I had spent for a prescription mask.  The experience was awesome and the fish often inquisitive!



   After Friday's excitement, Saturday was a day for recuperating.  We spent some time investigating the nearby pertroglyphs made by the early inhabitants, and even more time in the  markets especially intended to lure the many vacationers in the area.



   Having checked the weather forecast for the other side of the Island, we chose to book rooms at the Dolphin Bay Hotel in Hilo for Sunday night, giving us a little more time to explore the 'other' side.  We chose to cross the island on Saddle Road, between Mauna Kea  (site of a world-famous observatory complex) and Mauna Loa, the island's highest mountains.  The vegetation remained fairly sparce until we began to descend towards Hilo.  Our plan was to gather keys at the hotel and make our way out to the Kilauea Caldera in the Volcanoes National Park.  Of course, with plenty of time before nightfall, there was no reason not to stop at a mall along the way, as well as the Akatsuka Orchid Gardens and the tasting room of the Volcano Wineries!



Neil does "Thorston's Tube"





   A portion of the 11-mile road around the rim of the crater had been blocked off for some 3 years, we were told, as a result of the gases spewing from a portion of the crater.  We were still able to explore the "Thurston Lava Tube", stop at a few spots of interest along the 'Chain of Craters Road' leading to the coast, and catch the numerous steam vents along the rim of the crater before settling down at the Kilauea Overlook to wait for dusk to fall.  We left before the full effect of darkness but not before a glow was visible from the crack in the crater's bottom...after all, the Hilo Bay Cafe closed at 9 and had been billed as a 'must stop' in the guidebooks!



   After a breakfast of coffee, sweetbread and 'all the fresh papaya and banana one can eat' from the trees on the property at the Dolphin Hotel, we took another loop through town, marvelling at how much it felt like our African experience.  We strolled through Lilluokalani Gardens on the ocean front, conscious of the devastation that had occured from earlier tsunamis.  

  





Botanical Garden





   Then it was north, up the Hamakua Coast.  Our first stop was an amazing 37 acre garden created in a narrow gorge plummeting to the sea (once a dump site for early inhabitants).  Another labour of love, accessed by a 500 ft. boardwalk descending some 120 feet, the  1 1/4 miles of garden trails were a joy to explore, despite the soft rain that fell now and then.  Lunch was at a small sideroad diner before travelling on to view the 300 ft. Akaka Falls.  Marijuana was said to be the cash crop of the coast, so we didn't venture off the mile-long concrete loop trail that showed the falls (and other drops further downstream) to their best advantage!  Then, it was back through Waimea and home in time for supper.

 



Diving Jitters



   We booked a dive on the 'Atlantis' Tuesday afternoon as those for Wednesdays and Fridays were already filled with tourists coming in on the many cruise ships expected.  Since that left the morning 'empty', we talked the Wellses into accompanying us down the coast even further than we had explored, to the beach at Pu'uhonua O Honaunau Bay, where the snorkelling was supposed to be even better.  Access to the water was even trickier than at Kahalu'u.  Here there was no sand, just shelves of lava from which to 'disembark'.  The veterans in the crowd were very helpful, reminding us NOT to slip our fingers into any of the multitude of small holes in the lava where tiny sea urchins clung, defending their site with excrutiating stings!  We soon got the knack of 'slipping in and out' with the moving water but were disappointed that we saw much less in the way of animal life (though sea corals were plentiful).  Dolphins leapt in the bay further out and sea turtles lounged in a nearby shallow tidal pool, but we didn't get to swim with either.





   We lunched at "Splashers", a second-story, open-aired restaurant across from the pier where we were to be shuttled out to the 'Atlantis' for our afternoon dive.  Few of us managed to get through the huge portions served.  The 50-minute dive was well-orchestrated, took us to some 100 ft. below the level of the bay, and included manoeuvers around two sunken vessel sites.  Although only six of us were paying passengers, I found it difficult to hear the narration of the young fellow working hard to entertain and inform.  Apart from a few species, we had seen nearly as much on our snorkelling jaunts, but were glad Marilyn and Neal were able to see some of the things with which we had been so enthralled.



Happy hour at the "Macaroni Grill"Marilyn, Neal, Maryann,
Elmer, Don, Darleen, Harvey and Jeanne

    Wednesday was another 'lay back' day.  I was ready to launch into my third novel of the holiday, so headed to the nearby beach to tan and read.  I returned to learn that Jeanne Hamm (Kim's sister-in-law) had called and suggested we meet for drinks across the way at the "Queen's Market" that afternoon.  Jeanne and Harvey were travelling with neighbours Elmer and Maryann, so the eight of us took up a corner of the outside patio at the 'Macaroni Grill', keeping the barmaid hopping.  We're looking forward to having them visit Quesnel this summer.

 

   Neal, Dar, and I made the trip back up to Waikoloa Village Thursday morning to mail off the key to the Dolphin Bay Hotel I found in my 'lounging jacket' (I'll now be more tolerant of our guests who end up doing the same thing!).  We decided to venture further north to visit the macadamian nut far1m we missed the last time we were north.  It was well worth the extra few miles.  I had no idea one could buy macadamian nuts infused with the taste of wasabi, Kona coffee, or spam (to name but a few of the dozen or more choices available!)  We opted for a few tins of the 'slightly salted' variety.

   On the return, we stopped at the Hapuna State Park just north of us.   The winter seas made snorkelling difficult, but hundreds of people were already there soaking up the sun, taking their 'constitutional' walk along the 1/2 mile of  'sugar sandy' beach, or tempting fate with surf and boogy boards in the often 9 foot waves.  Could Paradise be more pleasant?  Thank you, Marilyn for sharing some of your photos!



  

  





Ten Days on Kauai

   A year has passed since our last posting (and somehow I'll learn to change the introductory paragraph above!)  This year, Darleen and I (along with friends Marilyn and Neal Wells) left the snowy Cariboo behind, heading for the warmer climes of the Hawaiian Islands.  After a wonderful month of visiting friends and family in and around Vancouver we left January 15th for our first stopover...10 days on Kauai, the "Garden Isle".

   The 6-hour flight brought us in to Honolulu at 2:30 that afternoon BUT it was another 7 hours before we reached our destination at Nihi Kai Village in the resort area of Po'ipu on the southern coast of Kauai.  The reason?  We didn't  book our inter-island flight (some 40 minutes in duration) before leaving home and all flights leaving Honolulu over the next 5 hours were previously reserved.  Not only that, we had to pay MUCH more for booking later and through the airport agent!!



Na Pali Coastline from Kalalau Lookout

   Between early morning garbage collection (much the same noise as that made by 'dumpster divers' in the west end), the morning call of the hundreds of roosters running free on the island, AND the lovelorn call of mating doves, none of us were able to sleep in, despite our ordeal the night before.   We were determined to 'hang loose' on this island paradise, so spent most of Sunday becoming more familiar with our 'condo' and where it was located.   Our townhouse of the 70s had two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and private 'lanais' on the bottom floor and full kitchen, dining area, living room and lanai on the top.  All was comfortably furnished in 'tropical' theme that made us feel right at home.  Most of the afternoon was spent retracing the route we'd made in the dark of night to Lihue, the capital, to stock up on some provisions for our stay.

   We were advised to head out early Monday morning to investigate the western side of the island, before the 'sea mists' shrouded the Na Pali coastline.  We climbed some 5000 feet along the edge of the Waimea Canyon, reaching the last lookout on the road just before noon.  We were in time to catch this view of the Na Pali coastline, an almost impenetrable landscape on Kauai's northwest coast.



Marilyn and Darleen,
willing learners of the hula.



   Tuesday morning was again spent wandering the nearby roads and beach trails before the rest of the crew were up.  Checked out the drug store at Kaola, up the road, to learn that it, too, was right out of the 30s and 40s, like the rest of the community.  Quaint shops in old buildings.



   That afternoon we set out for the Kilohana Plantation, once a prosperous producer of sugar.  We had booked the 'luau' online, knowing we could only catch in on Tuesdays and Fridays.  We spent several hours before the event browsing through the many shops in the original homestead and those scattered around its grounds.  We decided to forego the train ride, but took in the offerings of the rum sampling room (well, Neal and I did!).

   We were greeted at the site of the luau by a young couple bearing leis and were delighted to learn that drinks were free for the next two hours until supper was served!  The 'warm up' to the luau included dancing exhibitions, craft displays, and an opportunity to learn the 'hula'...you can imagine who was game to 'jump right in'!   We enjoyed a huge buffet and an evening stage show telling of the plight of the first people to arrive in Hawaii.  We returned home completely enthralled!



The 'Nene' huddle down.



   Wednesday was spent in the Po' ipu area again.  The girls took a few hours to shop and have lunch at a nearby resort 'mall' while Neal and I went a little further afield to preview places that might be of interest.  The warm afternoon found us all at 'The Tomcat', a pub comprised of a collection of buildings and walkways enclosing a tiny courtyard of trees, shrubs and floors...the perfect site for 'happy hour'.



  By Thursday morning, we were ready to venture out on a longer journey.  We left fairly early, hoping to avoid some of the traffic around Lihue of which even our guidebooks warned us.  We knew we couldn't 'do it all' in one day, so travelled as far as Lumaha'i Beach on the North Shore, made famous by Mary Martin 'washing that man right out of her hair' in "South Pacific"...Marilyn giving us her own interpretation!  Some 45 sites around the island were shown to be spots where scenes from many movies had been shot...films like "Hook", "Lord of the Flies", "Jurassic Park", and "Raiders of the Lost Ark" to name but a few.



Kilauea Lighthouse



   We backtracked in time to make our one o'clock date for a tour of the Na 'Aina Kai Botanical Gardens, the private passion of a couple, originally from California, who had the means to design their own 'Bali Hai'.  Before leaving the North Shore, we ventured out to the Kilauea Lighthouse where we spotted this pair of "Nene" (Hawaiian geese) which were once close to extinction.  Heavy seas and an incoming tide made for spectacular waves, whose force continue to shape this amazing coastline.

   Friday was another 'closer to home' day.  Spent the morning wandering through nearby resorts as though their guest, enjoying the novelty of their landscaped pools and water features.  Beyond the Hyatt was a long shelf of rock forming a cliffside of interesting caves worn by the pounding surf.



   After an hour at the pool and a light lunch, we headed east, back towards Hanapepe, at the foot of Waimea Canyon.  Enroute we stopped at the Kaua'i Coffee Plantation for a video and tour explaining the history and process involved in producing a coffee on par with the famed 'Kona' variety!



On the 'Na Pali' trail, above Ke'e Beach

   We had 'pulled out all the stops' and booked supper at the 'Hanapepe Bakery and Cafe', taking advantage of the seafood specialty prepared by a guest chef from the Caribbean....freshly caught and grilled tuna, prawns and crab made up the entree.  Sixteen of the local shops stayed open for a 'main street market', a feature every Friday night from 6 till 9.  Music, lights, smells of roadside food stalls, and happy faces filled the night!

'Beach Bunnies'

  

 On Saturday, we again headed to the North Coast.  This time we were determined to drive to the end of the road (which became even narrower and windier as we travelled).  After crossing 10 one-way bridges, seaside homes built on stilts, and two large caves, we came to the end of the road at Ke'e Beach.  Parking was at a premium as it was already mid-morning and we were not the only ones wanting to hike some part of the Na Pali trail.  It was billed as 'strenuous'.  Much of it followed the wash of run off water which had created a bit of a channel amidst the volcanic boulders and twisted roots.  Parts of the trail were almost straight up.  We decided the view from the lookout at the 1/2 mile lookout suited us just fine.  We would leave  the last 10 1/2 miles for the younger set who whizzed past us, carrying their overnight camping gear with zeal.



Kamokila Tiki



   Sunday was another 'slow go'.  Perhaps we've learned how to relax after ticking off most of the items on our list of things to do.  I followed the 'beach bunnies' to their favourite spot on the sandy beach where (they insisted) they were interested only in the lounging monk seals and children playing at the ocean's shore.  (But I noticed that a lot of strapping young 'kane' carrying surfboards were also in the area!)  The afternoon was spent up the east side of the island following the Wailua River past the fern grotto made famous by Elvis and the twin falls familiar in the opening credits of "Fantasy Island".  Close by was Kamokila,  a recreated folk village also used as a movie set at one time.

   Monday was spent washing, repacking, and getting things ready for our Tuesday morning departure.  Neal and I made one last trip west past Hanapepe to get the photos we'd missed...sugar cane fields, a replica of Capt. Cook's statue in Waimea where he first landed...oh, and the fruits of a mini brewery at Waimea Plantation Cottages, and a last meal of succulent beer-battered prawns at the Shrimp Shack.

In the afternoon, Dar and I headed for the beach.  It didn't seem right not to take a dip in the ocean.  Most beaches warned of heavy seas and we had decided to put off snorkelling till another island...but not to take a dip seemed a sin.